Talking with "The Star"

Talking with “The Star”

     It is not unusual to delve into the paradigm of saying the chemicals and heat treatment used if any, into the enhancement and into the digit of carats, specific gravity or refractive indices in gemology - the science seems inevitably to distract us from the intrinsic elegance and value of a particular gem in defining its ‘beauty’.  Nonetheless, so as to weigh a balance between the science and the aesthetic; I thought, adding the imagination when talking about gems, would bring about a somewhat casual and relaxing ambiance to the article. I imagine myself being on stage for “a gem talk show”, conveying some aspects of my experiences in the gem circle and more essentially to my fan club. Wow…An à la mode artistry!!! haha…

     I always reminisce my childhood and growing up as a primary school boy. The nostalgia of memories between the 1960s-70s come to my mind very vividly, every now and then, as if they were the events of just the other day. Those flashback scenes of Thais in daily walks of life everywhere, adorned with gold jewelry of myriad designs of rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and occasionally, even a glittering gold tooth that gave a somewhat uncanny elegant smile in a fleeting moment that was always remembered as a prominent blink in my mind…. The typical striking goldsmith boutiques standing juxtaposed among the other commercial shops in every downtown market. Hence I am able to easily relate these images to the people of the legendary golden land of the Orient “Suvarnabhumi”.  In that era, the rate of gold was surprisingly priced at $35 per ounce.  Seldom was it reported in the news, that an offence of pillage or robbery of an establishment or a private residence took place. People even felt safe and secure to adorn themselves in all their finery of gold jewelry and venture outdoors going about their daily chores. They seemed not to be afraid of being robbed, as cases of robbery were rarely ever encountered.  “Wearing a gold shop”- Was a good-humored satire for those who awkwardly got dressed up, by overloading themselves with gold and jewelry. Remarkably popular to this period was the old man’s ring, set with a huge dome-like stone. These local gemstones were a very common sight which came from the eastern region of Thailand known as the “Black Star Sapphires”.  The massive looking round-shaped ring topped with a huge dome-like gem was the vogue for men’s rings. These were the most wide-spread items that one could see on display in almost every goldsmith and jewelry shop of the time (during 1960-1970). I recall my childhood attraction when in primary school, of staring at the rings of my male teachers to see the display of the six-rayed star – the prominent star would never fail to amaze me, hovering on the huge gemstone. This moving star captivated my attention from time to time, especially when my teacher was writing on the chalkboard: the spectacular asterism shifted around according to the tilting finger movements of my teacher. In comparison, most of the female teachers wore small Thai-styled band rings which were set with many small black star sapphires that were less noticeable. This scene is always vivid in my memory and it had launched my passion for jewels and gemology.

     
     In spite of the fact that these old-styled rings have been completely out of fashion for a long time, I still have a nostalgia for this kind of vintage jewelry. In contemporary jewelry shops, display of star sapphires have also disappeared from the shelves and shop windows. The star sapphires have been rather scarce in recent years. This may probably be due to the fact of the rare supply of the rough star sapphire at the lapidary in Chantaburi. It is most unfortunate that the decrease is more noticeable when people in the trade confront the shortage even in small calibrated size of star sapphires. Today if there is a desire for a gem of an opulent calibrated size, it would take a very long time for the supplier to come up with a find to meet the requisite. If one were to compile all the small stones of equal quality for a specific order, it is definitely not an easy task. Hence, that is the reason why suppliers tend to refuse, as I do too, the order of star sapphire in a big lot for a small calibrated size.

       Interestingly, the Thai black star sapphire is known worldwide for the best display of the star effect known as asterism. The characteristic asterism seen in the Thai black sapphire is most outstanding when compared to the star sapphires from other sources. The remarkably sharp and high-luster star rays in the Thai black sapphires radiate a high contrast to the dark background, thus the asterism is prominently visible even when viewed from a distance. Thus, this impressive attribute renders the Thai black star sapphire as the most unique from all other asterism gems. By the year 1967, the Siamese Ruby rush in the Trad province had absolutely mesmerized the attention of the miners, so they evacuated themselves from the sapphire mines at Chantaburi. As a result, the local popularity of star sapphires was also shifted to be quenched by the auroral Siamese ruby, which also led to the subsequent drop in price of the star sapphire. The star sapphire had been almost forgotten for more than a decade, as the locals seemed not to pay much attention for these old-fashioned gems anymore, so the price dropped significantly. As a result of this, foreign traders rushed for the opportunity to obtain the best deals to acquire the star sapphires. Interestingly, the large quantities of the black star sapphires which were exported to the western countries, became the new trend sensation especially to the fashionable male. Black star sapphires were boldly infused into a plethora of men’s jewelry such as rings, tie clips, necktie pins and cufflinks that resonated the status of the affluent gentleman. Interestingly, this time period also coincided with the war in Vietnam, and the U.S. Air Force base was at Satahip, not far from Chantaburi and Bangkok. I can vividly recall, when the G.I. military officers completed their duty here and went back to the U.S., Thai jewelry became the most sought after items, a popular souvenir not for just the soldiers, but for family and loved ones back home. The best buy for them seemed to be these plenteous and widespread male rings of the decade: these particularly massive-looking gold rings set with Thai black star sapphires became the trend of masculinity and very much in vogue everywhere. The soldiers wore the ring from the moment they purchased them. It was not only the reasonable price they paid for their items that attracted them, but also the charming phenomenon of the asterism that took their fancy. They were aroused by the hovering star on the dome surface that made their purchase unique and original when compared to all other gems. They graciously confirmed that they had never seen such remarkable gemstones elsewhere. Thus these soldiers viewed the gem as a lucky star-gem that brought them good fortune to keep them safe and alive in times of war and also persuaded their friends to follow suit and buy these so-called lucky charms. Hats off to those U.S. Military Officers, who introduced the Thai star sapphires to the American populace, later to become well-known in the U.S. and worldwide. Even a long time after the Indochina War, some American tourist in Thailand would ask for the Thai black star sapphire, for they still had a penchant for it as their most sought after souvenir. Unfortunately nowadays, such a scenario has become a legend, since these gems are not abundant anymore.

     For the time being, Thai black star sapphires have become much rarer than before, therefore their price value has increased progressively since the last decade. In the gem center of Chanthaburi, the number of dealers for the star sapphire has decreased significantly. Only a few suppliers and lapidaries still work for star sapphire and there may be less than 10 companies left, as most of them have changed to other fields or careers due to the shortage in the raw material. In January of this year, I was asked to supply 100 gemstones of calibrated size (the size of 5 carats) I had to reluctantly decline and refused the order as I was sure that it was not feasible to compile the gemstones of similar size in the limited time constraint.

     As the good quality rough stones from the mines are so rare, and the market demand still continues, some lapidaries turn to make use of the low-grade rough stones that were once sorted out and discarded during the grading process because of their heavy inclusions, cracks or fractures. These heavily fractured rough stones are usually stored in sacks, found around the lapidary storage probably intended to be used as decorative pebble for aquariums. Nowadays these low-grade rough stones are not spared, instead they are treated in the process of enhancement, in the technique called fracture filling. The materials used as fracture fillers are flux powder and high RI glass (lead glass). These filling materials enter the cavities and cracks and fuse into the stones so as to improve their clarity. In the first type, the flux powder enters only the surface cracks by the technique known as oxy-heating. In the lead glass process, the filling penetrates into the deeper levels of the factures and cavities by the treatment called “New Heating” or “lead glass filling”. Usually only moderate temperature is used for the process in order to melt the filler material as this will not harm the affect of the asterism at all. Nowadays, the unheated or untreated black star sapphires are so rare that they are seldom seen in the gem market. If you come across the unheated stones, the price is surprisingly high. In the trade, the big parcels of star sapphire of small calibrated size, usually comprise of more than 80% of the fracture-filled gem variety. The diffused star sapphires which are the artificially titanium induced gem variety are also common. Normally this kind of surface-plated star gem is not permanent as the star will disappear when the coating withers away with time. Therefore this kind of treatment is not the accepted norm as it is provisional and not permanent.

How to become “The Star” of the gems?

      I have always had a penchant for the star gems in the same way and to the same degree as the people who are crazy or fanatic for their favorite film stars or idols.  Other than my childhood impressions and memories, there are certain reasons that could explain why I am so crazy about these gems.  In the gem trade, transparent faceted gemstones are more abundant than the phenomenal star gems. In the sorting or grading of these transparent faceted gemstones, we can easily find the matching gems of similar color, cut, shape and size. Diamonds can be easily graded and calibrated in all sizes and forms according to their market demand. As for the star sapphires, we can only focus on the individual gem. This is because each single stone is distinct from another not only in the aspect of color, transparency, sheen, luster, shape and size but also in the very remarkable display of the star: the display of star in each single gem is unique. In the other words, this unique feature is a master piece of nature. As the asterism in a gemstone is a very rare phenomenon. To become a star sapphire, the gemstone must possess specific properties and must undergo certain conditions in order to bring out the star effect. There are 5 main factors that contribute into bringing about the star effect:

~1. There must be microscopic rutile needles (called “silks”) as inclusion inside the gem.

~2. The amount of silks must be of a high density.

~3. The silks are all parallel on one plane in 3 directions.

~4. The silks intersect each other at 60^o.

~5. The gem is cut as a cabochon with the dome face parallel to the basal crystallographic plane.

How often can mother earth yield such a perfect condition?  Evidently, this phenomenon is not easy to occur.  If it does happen, perfection is not always the case, as the display of a poor star effect is often observed: missing rays or overlapping rays, off-centered rays that are oblique to the basal, distorted and pale star rays… etc. Fractures and fissures are usually found in most natural rough stones. Accordingly, a perfect star corundum which has a good-shape, is crack-free, and shows a brilliant star effect is beyond rare.

An Appraisal of the Star Sapphire

A perfect star sapphire should comprise of the following attributes:

1.       A well protruding and curved dome to enhance the display of the star: a well curved dome face can bring out the prominent and perfect star better than those of a flat body. Such a perfect dome is certainly carved from a fairly thick rough stone. Unfortunately, the rough stone of Thai sapphires, as basalt-associated corundum, are mostly flat and thin due to the parting in their structure. Consequently star sapphires with a thick and well-curved dome are very rare.

2.       The sharpness of the star: the star should be prominently sharp and of high luster that make a contrast with the deep-toned background. The star should possess only 6 rays (i.e. no additional or overlapping star rays should be visible) of which the rays are straight and extend to the girdle.

3.       A well-centered star:  A star should be located in the middle of the dome face.

4.       Variety: star sapphires are sorted according to their colors and rarity such as black star sapphire, yellow star sapphire, blue star sapphire, green star sapphire etc. Particularly in case of the colored star sapphire varieties, the factor of transparency is also a consideration.

5.       A smooth and crack-free dome face.

The Star at Your Service

     After reading such an elaborate yet informative and complicated article on gemological theory; are you ready for the hunt for just that luring beautiful star sapphire? Very much like that famed explorer Indiana Jones, with a compass and map; will one be able to locate the gem after the quest? If the question disturbs you, then it is no use thinking of the hunt and the adventure. If the question allures you, then look no further, as the extensive premium-grade Thai star sapphires selected by a gemologist are waiting for you right here in my picture gallery: all gems are natural, unheated and untreated. Just have a survey, get engrossed and select the one that takes your attention. All gems have passed our stringent gemological standard tests and are duly certified with a gem laboratory document of authenticity. The price is reasonable and fair when compared to the other dealers. These star sapphires are worth saving or adding to your collection, embellishing your own jewelry design, or to accumulate as an investment. And certainly, it is a very durable asset (second hardest gem next to diamond).

    My passion for gems has been an ongoing process, inspired by the plethora of my childhood memories and that of my ardent imagination. Every time I encounter a new gem, it is always an exhilarating experience as I feel as if I were on a sublime adventurous voyage whereby I am able to rub shoulders with new people. I love to designate an apt name to each of the gems I collect. I enjoy the process of naming a new gem, from moment I imagine all possible names till the time I finally decide on one, I really have fun.

     Here are some of my collection gems which I have named, “The Eastern Star”, “The Cyan Ray” and “The Star of Renu” (in honor of Miss Renu who brought the rough stone).

      Due to my years of experience and expertise in the gem circle of the star corundum gems, I am referred to as “Wat the Star”, by my friends working in the gem market at Chantaburi. I am honored to be dubbed with this synonym, and therefore have to live up to my expectations. Certainly, it makes me happy and, I unabashedly believe I am quite the “The Star”, when it comes to gemstones, and not in the musical domain as a pop singer…haha… (Which, if I did have, would make me a genius). However, this is totally true in the arena of my expertise as a connoisseur and gem critique, in accessing the scientific and aesthetic beauty of a particular gem. I use present day technology of the internet as a platform to find prospective buyers to view and select from my exclusive collection of star sapphires and other precious stones which have been acquired by my analytic mind over the years. I have organized a bilingual website for the convenience of gem aficionados worldwide and provide a service of rapid delivery to the customer by express mail. Regarding any queries and viewing of items of high value, a customer can easily contact me for an appointment in Bangkok. Customers can make an order or command for their requisite of specific gems of their choice. Our service may take time as in the case of a special quest of some rare item. Furthermore, I have written various gemological articles published on the website in the special column called “Gem Clinic”. I also publish all articles on the Facebook Fan Page. So you can follow my articles both from this website and from my Facebook Fan Page. Now that you know me, whenever you think of star sapphires of quality, please do not hesitate to contact “Wat the Star”.  It would give me great pleasure in assisting you in your desired pursuit, and I would be glad to be at your service.

1 July 2017

Mr. Siriwat Jiamanusorn (FGA)